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Different Types of Screen Printing Techniques

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Screen printing might sound like it’s a straightforward process but there are many print effects that can be achieved with the right technique. The different screen printing methods are used to create a specific look to fit with the style you’re looking for. In order to achieve certain looks, you may need to adjust your artwork file or overall design. Don’t worry, we will take you through those steps!

In this guide, you will find the best T-shirt printing methods explained, exploring how each method works, the process, and the end results. Each of these methods are widely used by screen print shops around the world.

About Screen Printing

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Screen printing is one of the most popular, established, and widely used amongst print shops. The process involves using screens to apply ink to apparel and other various materials. Also known as silkscreen printing, screen printing is a versatile and effective printing method that allows you to produce T-shirts with outstanding quality and a tactile feel. And, because the inks are absorbed deeply into the fabric, it is possible to achieve vivid, bright colors and maximum durability.

This is one of the most traditional methods of T-shirt printing, with experts believing it dates back as far as ancient China. However, it became popular in the 20th century, when Andy Warhol used the technique to create his iconic Marilyn Monroe portrait. It has since been used to create flatstock such as band posters, art prints, and graphic tees.

What Is The Screen Printing Process?

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  • Design Creation

    • Screenprint designs are often done using various software such as illustrator. You will want to ensure your file is in the right format before you begin creating your design. Size is very important and you will want to ensure the file can be re-sized according to the print surface.

  • File Formatting

    • Vector files are needed to create a perfect print. Vector files are mathematical calculations that create lines and figures on our monitors. Unlike working with pixels, you can expand or minimize these vectors as much as you want, without impacting the quality. As well as being saved as a vector, the artwork must also be separated, with each color on a different layer. This is because, in the screen printing process, each tone is printed using a different screen.

  • Screen Preparation

    • The screen needs to be coated with a photosensitive emulsion. This creates the green background you might have seen on a screen printing screen. This is a simple process but must be done carefully to ensure that the liquid is distributed evenly.
      For the photosensitive emulsion to work properly, it must be left to dry in a cool, darkroom. If the emulsion is exposed to light at the wrong time, it could jeopardize the full process.

  • Stencil Creation

    • Once the screen is dry, the design is placed on top of it and secured in place using an adhesive. The screen is then placed under a strong source of UV light. The parts of the screen that haven’t been covered with the design will harden, while the rest will remain soft. In effect, the design has now been burned into the emulsion. When the screen is fully dry, the design can be removed using a small brush and water. A negative component of the artwork will be left and the artwork is ready to be printed using the preferred ink and technique to achieve the right look.

  • Color Separation

    • If your design features more than one color, the process is repeated so that each color in your design is separated into individual layers on different screens. So, if your design has two colors, you’ll need two screens.

  • Application

    • Now that the screen is ready, it’s time to start the actual printing. The T-shirt will be placed in the screen printing machine, with the screen carefully placed on top. The ink will then be placed on top of the screen and evenly distributed across the surface using a squeegee.

Learn more about the life of a screen from The Metropolitan Museum of Art

What Are The Different Types of Screen Printing?

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With screen printing, you can create different finishes such as crackle or glow in the dark, but there are also different techniques that can be done to create a specific look for your print. These different techniques are used when you have a specific look in mind or you’re looking for a specific or unique aesthetic.

Spot Color Screen Printing

Spot Color Screen Printing is the most common t-shirt printing method. It uses the stock color of the ink by printing it through the stencil of the screen. It produces a vibrant solid spot of color and creates a thicker layer of ink depending on the ink and mesh count used.

Being it is one of the most beneficial in printing darker garments. It is useful for printing 1 – 4 colors; when you have more spot colors, other printing methods such as the simulated process may be a good option.

Because spot colors layer an infinite amount of colors, they can provide a much more vibrant and detailed print. In addition to the variety of options, spot colors provide much better consistency from print to print. When printing a solid color with process inks, there may be slight variations in the color balance that can affect the color’s consistency. While spot colors may cost a bit more, they can add a lot to your project making the extra cost well worth it in the end. Check “How To Screen Print: Spot Color”.

Halftone Printing

Halftone prints are single or multiple colors in which gradients are printed. These tones can range from solid spots to halftones of the same color. This screen printing method is excellent when you want to achieve the look of multi-color printing without actually doing it. This screen printing method emphasizes the use of shading with tiny dots, pictures can be printed using halftone screen printing and only use one single color to do so.

For example, if you want to get a pink radiant color on your white t-shirt, you can print red on a white shirt and include a 50% gradient. The 50% gradient will mix with the white to give it a pink appearance, all using only one screen and one color. It improves the graphics quality and produces a softer feeling print when printed directly onto the garment. Check “How To Get Started Screen Printing with Halftones”.

Grayscale Printing

Greyscale printing is a great way to print full-color images as one-color grayscales or halftones. Full-color photographs can be printed as a one-color halftone. Full-color drawings containing a complete range of different colors may also be produced employing a one-color halftone.

Typically it’s done in black ink on a light garment, but technically speaking, it can be done in any color ink as desired. The resolution will depend on the lines per inch used in the dot pattern.

The more dots a halftone has, the more detailed the print will look. It is a great cost-effective screen printing technique to print black and white photographs on garments. Watch “Convert a full color image to grayscale for screen printing using halftones”.

HOW IS HALFTONE PRINTING DIFFERENT THAN A GRAYSCALE?

Halftone printing is different than grayscale printing for several reasons. The first is the fact that halftone printing involves using one color to create various shades and portray the desired image as a result. Grayscale printing, on the other hand, is the specific use of gray shades from black and white.

Duotone Printing

Duotone printing, also known as multitone printing, is the combination of two halftones for the same image printed with two colors. First, a black halftone is printed on white tees, and then a second halftone will be printed with color ink.

The color halftone combines with the black halftone to produce a duotone color hue. It gives a retro and cooling effect to the prints on light-color garments and gives a full-color print appearance but at a much less expensive rate. It also produces a softer feel print when printed onto the garment.

This process requires that the press be set up with special inks, usually PANTONE-designated colors, instead of the standard CMYK inks used for process color printing. Check out “Creating and Separating Duotone Images”.

CMYK Printing

CMYK is the oldest, color reproduction, print method. Using cyan, magenta, yellow and black ink, screen printers can print designs on white or light-colored garments. For users skilled in CMYK file preparation, Photoshop, and screen creation, this is still a viable print process for light-colored garments.

CMYK printing is the most complex of all screen printing techniques and should be done on an automatic press. It can be done manually, but for optimum results, you need an automatic t-shirt press.

The printing process combines the above four colors to recreate the original image’s full tonal and color range. Moreover, it is an expensive process. Additionally, CMYK is implemented less because simulated printing is more dominant. Watch “How To Screen Print T-Shirts in CMYK”.

Simulated Process Printing

A simulated printing process is a method used to reproduce almost any image on the market. It does so by overlapping and blending colors in a method similar to CMYK through using halftones and spot colors and/or PMS colors. Essentially, it's a way of taking an image that historically would have been printed via CMYK but instead uses more opaque ink to create a more stable color and production-friendly ink that can print almost any design for any garment.

Moreover, it is most often the process used to print complex images on black-colored garments. Designs that are too difficult to separate in a vector program, raster images, photographs, complex tonal illustrations, are all doable with Simulated Process. Watch “How to Screen Print: Simulated Process”.

Learn more about the different screen printing methods “CMYK vs. Spot Color vs. Simulated Process Printing”.

Author: Irene Floridia - Content Creator


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A Guide To Streetwear Design

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Designing artwork for a t-shirt or a hat may seem like a simple task, but when it comes to the technical application of the design; things may get complicated. The road to starting your own streetwear brand does not have to be bumpy! we encourage you to inform yourself before investing time and money, and we will help you by taking you through the different steps to consider when creating and designing your own apparel brand.

In this article, we will walk you through efficient and economical ways to begin a streetwear clothing line as well as the technical part of apparel printing to help you avoid having to re-design your logo or any other artwork you would like to print on t-shirts, hats, or pants.

Photo and T-Shirt Design By NEVER MADE

Photo and T-Shirt Design By NEVER MADE

What Is Streetwear?

Streetwear is a casual fashion style that became popular in the 1990s. It includes comfortable yet trendy clothing such as graphic tees, hoodies, sweatpants, and sneakers. Streetwear brands are inspired by both hip-hop culture and skater style. Followers of the latest trends in streetwear are known as hypebeasts, and many go to great lengths to acquire limited-edition designer hats, hoodies, sneakers, and more.

The first streetwear brands emerged in Southern California in the 1980s, when surfers sold screen printed T-shirts to promote their hand-shaped surfboards. Inspired by the street style of LA skateboarders and surfers as well as hip-hop fashion, small skateboarding shops in NYC started creating their own designs in the 1990s.

In the 2000s, sneaker culture influenced streetwear fashion. Hypebeasts paired their graphic tees with athletic sneakers, and collaborations flourished.

In the 2010s, luxury streetwear was born. As young people and social influencers made streetwear an important part of pop culture, and the fashion industry noticed, from mainstream sportswear brands to high fashion brands, got in on the action.

The Basics

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Comfort

As mentioned, streetwear takes inspiration from the hip-hop culture as well as the skater style. When figuring out the fit of your apparel, you will first want to think about whether you’re looking to design loose and comfortable pieces or have more of a tapered look.

Streetwear is generally defined by breaking the rules of proportion by using oversize t-shirts with skinny jeans or dropped-crotch sweatpants, but as the style evolves, it is encouraged to just make cool and interesting apparel regardless of fit.

Ripped pants and distressed jeans are also part of the streetwear style, these details are important to the overall look. Considering what type of fit and style gives you brand identity and consolidates your audience to a specific group, which in turn, will help you narrow down your marketing efforts in the future.

Fabrics & Design

Because t-shirts are one in a million, and cool graphics are being designed and printed daily; good high-quality fabrics will set you apart from the competition and give your brand an edge. If this is something you can afford, we highly recommend going with higher quality cotton.

Cotton fabrics are premium options and ideal for long-lasting apparel. Additionally, the thicker the fabric, the better the graphics will be. The thicker fabric allows for a cleaner and nicer print, whether you’re screen printing the design or opting for a DTG print (direct to garment), a nice cotton blend is what you will need.

The design will depend on what your brand is about. Considering the name and the inspiration behind your brand as well as finding a compelling way to translate your passion for the brand into a cool graphic is key, and that same sentiment should show throughout each article of clothing and each collection thereafter.

We recommend that you stick to one logo and that logo be visible enough on all articles of clothing offered by your brand. The graphic design should be easy to read and recognizable. When designing the graphics, seek inspiration from your life, your surroundings, or the culture within your community. Having a design that directly connects to a certain lifestyle is what makes a streetwear brand successful.

Versatility

When creating your own apparel brand, especially in the streetwear category, you want each piece to be versatile. Versatility means that you can wear that article of clothing with many other pieces to allow the buyer to create their own unique look and keep their originality.

You can achieve versatility by including basic colors such as white, black, or grey. Minimal designs such as your logo embroidered small on the chest or your logo screen printed on the back of a t-shirt.

The Details

Accessories are essential to completing a look. There are simple accessories you can offer, such as hats, beanies, and bandanas to complete a unique outfit.

Screen printing a hat or a bandana is fairly easy and affordable, and are a good way to add accessories to your clothing line. Additionally, embroidering a logo on a hat or a cross-body bag is a good alternative that provides an added touch of customization and quality.

Focusing on the smaller details can make all of the difference in setting your brand apart from others, such as printing on unconventional spots like the sleeves or adding an embroidered element to the design.

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Screen Print or Direct To Garment?

There are many differences and similarities between these two methods of printing, and there are a number of criteria to be taken into consideration when making your decision. The following points will help you decide on which print method is better for your brand and more specifically what type of print method is best for your designs such as logo and other artwork you wish to display on the apparel.


  1. Quantity: Digital printing allows for a smaller quantity to be printed while screen printing will usually require a minimum.

  2. Apparel: Screen printing has more versatility when choosing your fabric. For digital printing, it is advised to print on 100% cotton or other select cotton blends and only certain colors.

  3. Design: Photographs or hyper-detailed images with a lot of colors are usually better printed digitally. However, if you have a large number of shirts you would like to print, screen printing may still be an option but it may cost you a little bit more or may require some adapting to make the design work best.


If cost is your main concern, the following criteria will dictate the best print method:

  1. Apparel: The type of apparel can range from value to premium options and depends on the style and brand.

  2. Print Locations: There is the option for 1 or 2 locations, which would be the front and/or the back (for a t-shirt or sweatshirt).

  3. Fabric Color: For screen printing on darker color fabrics, a white layer before your print is necessary and may cost a little bit more.

  4. Number of Colors: The more colors your print requires the higher the cost is for screen printing, however, if you have a large quantity, this cost may be a lot lower as you can have access to deeper discounts.

  5. Quantity: With screen printing, the number of pieces will dictate the majority of your cost. This is the most important factor that will most likely dictate the right method for you.


Streetwear Brand Spotlight:

Never Made is a Los Angeles based streetwear / lifestyle brand created by artist Francisco Reyes, Jr.

Never Made is a Los Angeles based streetwear / lifestyle brand created by artist Francisco Reyes, Jr.


Remember!

When people look at you as a “high-quality” streetwear brand, you’ll not only be able to charge more money, but you’ll be much more reputable in the process. Reputation can take you a long way in the fashion industry, especially when it comes to something as urban as streetwear.

Author: Irene Floridia - Content Creator


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The Rise of Gender-Neutral Clothing

Source: Christen Press and models sport gender-neutral streetwear in a promotional image for Re-Inc.

Source: Christen Press and models sport gender-neutral streetwear in a promotional image for Re-Inc.

We often think of clothing as a way to express our gender identity, but what about defying the gender norms when it comes to what you wear? This ideal has become more and more accepted by newer generations who are working to break down the berries of gender norms in fashion. In this article, we’ll take you through the latest in this fashion movement.

What is Gender-Neutral / Genderless Apparel?

Source: Youth Incorporated

Source: Youth Incorporated

We actively break down apparel into 2 main differentiations, men or women, while the conversation of gender continues to evolve within our society, and fashion is trying to keep up. It is true that the notion of clothing having a gender is a social construct, for example, when looking back at the way in which the high heel shoe was invented, men wore them to imply their upper-class status; only someone who did not have to work could afford, both financially and practically, to wear such extravagant shoes.

So, gender-neutral apparel is now becoming more popular among the new generation, but what does gender-neutral apparel look like? Well, “Genderless” clothing is being designed without a specific color or texture in mind, it is simply designed to be able to fit a variety of body types and the fashion is fluid, not inherently masculine nor feminine.

Check Out 3 Designers on How They Define Genderless Fashion

The term gender was first used in 1955 to describe social and cultural aspects of whether a person was male or female, regardless of their biological sex. Next, the term unisex was coined in the 1960s in reference to garments that were intended to be worn by either sex.

Comfort Over Gender

Source: One DNA

Source: One DNA

One of the many reasons gender-fluid apparel is trending, is the comfortability factor. Women’s clothes have a history of being uncomfortable to wear for long periods of time, and this is part of the reason many women look for more comfortably fitting clothes, oftentimes in the men’s section.

Additionally, not only is athleisure wear becoming more and more gender-less, but it’s the every-day clothing choice that attracts people, especially after more than a year being stuck at home wearing sweats or pajamas due to the covid-19 lockdowns.

In March of 2020, pajama sales increased by 143%2, but bra sales decreased by 13%. Right from the start, comfort became a priority.

Sales of gender neutral clothes on the rise

For brands looking to maximize sales, going gender-less can be a beneficial move. Because design isn’t inherently feminine nor masculine, fabrics and patterns can be worn by either gender or non-binary person. By taking the gender-fluid route, brands can cut costs on design time and sourcing fabric as well as manufacturing.

We have seen big brand such as Zara who introduced a line of unisex clothing for adults, while GapKids did the same for children’s wear. Toronto’s Muttonhead Apparel, whose utilitarian casuals are designed to fit both men’s and women’s bodies, has gained a huge following. Haute fashion houses like Hood by Air, J.W.Anderson and Gucci have all released unisex lines.

Brands can create long-lasting, high-quality pieces that can be sold at higher prices.
Source: EDITHMARCEL. Photo: Alessio Costantino

Source: EDITHMARCEL.

Photo: Alessio Costantino

Ethical & Sustainable

We have seen that fast fashion is slowly losing traction, and shoppers are looking for more sustainable options and ethically sourced apparel. This is where smaller brands can outshine big corporations. Yes, the cost is higher but studies show that consumers are more interested in quality, so they are more likely to spend a little more if the product is marketed right.

The Future of Apparel

Designing apparel that goes beyond the binary is predicted to become more and more popular among young people. Along with the size inclusion movement and trans and non-binary issues on the forefront of social conversations, we will be seeing more brands launch unisex apparel.

Read In-depth guide: un-gendered fashion and unisex clothing brands


How To Design

Unisex Clothing

Proportions

Biologically speaking, women’s bodies and men’s bodies are inherently different, therefore, adjustments are necessary but it should not compromise the overall style of the garment.

T-shirts for example, are easy to design to be worn by either gender. However, for a jacket or a blouse, it is important to have variety in size and proportions.

Design

Keep It Simple. If you’re just getting started, select a few garments that can be worn by either gender and adjust sizes accordingly. The overall design should be simple and loose, nothing form fitting but not too baggy.

Most unisex clothing was, and is, based on male styles. Fit may be adjusted, some new fabrics may be introduced, but it is still basically men’s clothing adjusted to include women wearing it.

Color

Go crazy with color, don’t be afraid to use a lot of colors and patterns.

Functionality

Not only is comfort a big part of unisex design, but functionality such as deep pockets, buttons, and zippers also play a big role. Think utilitarian!

Fabric

It is recommended to source recycled or natural fabrics like silks and organic cotton to achieve an “adaptable-type style” that downplays certain parts of the body and that can be worn in various ways.

Author: Irene Floridia - Content Creator


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Streetwear Fall Trends

The fall isn’t only for flannel and pumpkin spice lattes; in the fast evolving world of fashion trends, streetwear is front and center. With streetwear becoming more mainstream and social media usage is on it’s all time high, fashion history seems to be repeating itself. The trend this fall is reminiscent of the 1970’s, 1990’s and early 2000’s. We’ll take you to the top 5 trends for this fall/winter season.

Fashion Is Recyclable

It’s not only middle part hairstyle that Gen Z’s have brought back, it’s also streetwear with big wide leg pants and alternative apparel such as oversize sweatshirts and Dr. Marten boots. This fall we are seeing some styles from the early 2000’s making a comeback as well as some 70’s and 90’s , here are some of those trends.

Read more about The ‘90s fashion trends that are making a comeback in 2021

Velour Tracksuits

Baby Phat and Juicy Couture had a hold on us back then, and continue to have a big influence now. These tracksuits are the ultimate (more fashionable) alternative to athleisure apparel. Tracksuits have made a comeback for all most every generations since the 70’s and the '70s are as far away in the mid-'90s as the '90s are from today.

There are ways to customize your own Velour Tracksuits by incorporating chainstitching or embroidery of your name or nickname. Generally, the material for these tracksuits are more suited for embroidery.

Corduroy Jackets

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Once again, the 70’s comeback is being demonstrated by this trend. Corduroy is not longer your dad’s style; specifically the double breasted or utilitarian cut. Corduroy jackets are best worn with high waisted pants and boots, and they can be customized by adding embroidery or embroidered patches.

The best colors are dark and earthy colors, coupled with light pants or a turtle neck!

Fashion Tip: Tan colors are in this season! Don’t be afraid to pair tan on tan.

Letterman Jacket

Most notably made popular in the 90’s, this trend has been around since… well, the year 1865. The Harvard’s baseball team sewed the letter ‘H’ to their uniforms and the varsity jacket was born!

This jacket has evolved since 1865 but has not changed much in recent years. This style used to be signifier of your athletic accomplishments, it is now worn by many for the purpose of style.

The letterman jacket has also been a signifier of not only American sportswear but American streetwear as it was made trendy in the 80’s and 90’s. Basically, you can’t go wrong with this fit.

This jacket is great to customize with embroidered patches!

Fisherman’s Beanie

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A fisherman beanie is a bolder style because it sits higher on the head, leaving the ears, and potentially the front of the hair, exposed. The look is inspired by the dockworkers for which it’s named, but it really can be worn with just about any casual outfit.

Are you not sure about how to wear this type of beanie? Check out How To Wear a Beanie Without Looking Like an Idiot

Statement Tee

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People have a lot say, so what best way to express your thought than through a statement tee?

The statement tee has been around for a while now, however, it is again becoming a staple in everyone’s closet. Witty phrases and political statements are an easy and affordable way to upgrade your wardrobe and show a little bit of your personality.

Read 14 Statement Tees That Let Your Clothes Do The Talking


Author: Irene Floridia - Content Creator


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